Hi Guys I need help from the CO2 Guru's. So I've been running Pressurized CO2 for over a year now and have now run into my first major issue... Equipment: Macro Aqua Regulator (on time switch) 2 kg cylinder Insta Bubble counter Up Aqua in-line atomizer (Brand new) I have no clue why this is happening, I originally thought it was my Insta Atomizer, so I merrily swapped it for the new Up Aqua Atomizer yesterday but I still have the same blooming problem! Here is the issue, every day when the CO2 comes on I have to manually fiddle with my regulator to get the BPS running. I haven't had this problem in the past. Lucky I am home to watch the CO2 but these fluctuations are probably the cause of my algae problems! Could the problem be with the regulator? Is it broken or does it need a clean or what? I have never cleaned a regulator and wouldn't know where to start... HELP!
I think the UP-AQUA inline atomizer is the cause of the issue. Due to the atomizer, it requires a lot more pressure to push CO2 though the ceramic ring. I am not sure what the set pressure is on the Macro Aqua reg, but you need a minimum of 3bar of pressure to push CO2 through the atomizer in the inline diffuser. Now, your reg might be set at less than 3bar (is it bar or psi?) and it takes time to build up the pressure in the CO2 line. That's what I thin anyway. If you use a normal diffuser, does it work properly?
Hi Kryo, I had the exact same problem with my regulator/needle valve recently (though not the same brand as you). My bubble counter (which fits onto the needle valve) was leaking and caused water to get into the needle valve. My solution: Turn on the solenoid and suck out all the water from the needle valve using the air line. Just dont breath in the CO2. Now it works perfectly. What you can do to test is put the airline from the needle valve into a cup of water and switch the regulator on and off. The CO2 should flow without fiddling with the needle valve. If not, then just give the needle valve a clean. HTH
Hi, there. Sounds like a floating needle valve, also referred to as needle drift. It could possibly be pressure related too. As Sean mentioned, try with a glass\ceramic diffuser. Looking at your gauge needles have you noticed any fluctuation from when solenoid kicks on?
Hi Guys Thanks for your responses. Its not the Up-Aqua atomizer. As I mentioned I exchanged my Insta in-line atomizer to the Up-aqua thinking it might be a problem with the Insta atomoizer. Just checked the PSI and it's sitting firmly on 3 bars. Unfortunately I don't have a glass ceramic diffuser to test with... There is no needle shift on the guage needles at all when the solenoid kicks in... Oi guys I'm starting to panic!!! I'm going on holiday next week friday for two weeks and I need this sorted before I leave!
Thought this might help. Excuse the wire mess, will sort that out soon. Left you'll see the Up-Aqua Atomizer. Back right you can see the Insta Bubble counter. Front you can see the Macro Aqua Reg with the current pressure.
Most likely needle drift then. If so, the only quick fix I can think of you try (other than getting a better needle valve) , would be to install a speed control valve inline and open the stock needle valve to where it remains stable. But best to just upgrade needle valve if possible.
Tee-hee-hee thanks I'm seriously BLONDE these days! Guys, are these things standard meaning a new one will fit all makes a models of regulator (one size fits all) or do I need one specific for my regulator. If it's standard where can I buy one?
Have you tried one of those ADA "speed controllers" inline? @ Kryo, before you go out replacing the needle valve, could you place a check (non return) valve just after the needle valve and see if it improves any. Let us know. Ideally you should be looking at needle valves with flow coefficient of under 0.1 which is directly related to the orifice size of the needle valve. Any pneumatic company techie will know exactly what to get you if you mention C[sub]V[/sub] of under 0.1 and 1/8" NPT male thread. Thing is the really good ones will generally cost more than what you paid for your regulator and there are many other hobby grade reg's that have reasonably good needle valves for less than what (for example) an Ideal, Fabco, Parker, Swagelok or such major name needle valves would cost.
The speed controller would actually work really well on that. It is a quality piece of kit, and it would alleviate your problem. Then you'd just open your needle valve properly, and place the speed controller inline, and boom. Works like a bomb... (probably not the right analogy to use, but I'm tired)
A few things to try on.. - take the solenoid apart and clean it - take the regulator apart (the pieces that you can) and clean it - add non return valves - change the pipes, CO2 corrodes silicone
