LED planning advise and help please?

Discussion in 'Planted Tank Equipment' started by HC, May 20, 2013.

  1. HC
    Offline

    HC Plant menace

    • APSA Member
    77%
    Joined:
    May 24, 2011
    Messages:
    1,463
    Likes Received:
    336
    Trophy Points:
    93
    Location:
    Roodepoort
    Hi All


    I want to install LED in a new setup I will be getting soon, the idea I want to implement goes as follows:


    The tank is a 60L so the below should be sufficent I think


    4x Red LED's, 4x 10 000K LED'S and 16x 6 500K LED's
    All LED's are 3W if I am not mistaken
    Heat sink size 12 x 40 cm.
    2x 8 W Fans to get circulation going in the hood


    But I now have a few questions regarding the above:


    What Driver should I use to get optimum power to all LED's?
    Should the 10 000 K and the Red LED's be on a separate driver?
    Is it really needed for a dim-able Driver or should I be fine with just a plug and play driver?
    What optics will be better to use 45, 60 or 80 degree?


    I would like to DIY this, I have seen some kits available but its a bit too pricey and I wonder if I cannot get away with it a bit cheaper, if not I will be giving this ago:


    [size=78%]http://www.aquastyleonline.com/products/Aquarium-24--LEDs--DIY-Dimmable-Kit.html[/size]
     
  2. Hanekka
    Offline

    Hanekka Moderator Staff Member

    • Global moderator
    23%
    Joined:
    Mar 21, 2013
    Messages:
    2,248
    Likes Received:
    679
    Trophy Points:
    123
    Location:
    Cape Town
    I also have a question regarding an LED set-up, similar to this one:

    Their intensity if different from the "normal" tubes. So that also means the wattage requirements will be different.
    So... How many W/L (or W/G) should you plan for when using LEDs?

    I see you have lots of Watts. 1.2W/L. Is that high-/ med-/ or low-light? :scratch:
     
  3. HC
    Offline

    HC Plant menace

    • APSA Member
    77%
    Joined:
    May 24, 2011
    Messages:
    1,463
    Likes Received:
    336
    Trophy Points:
    93
    Location:
    Roodepoort
    Hanekka, that is a very good question, I am unsure of the penetration of these LED's, but I saw on this forum and on another forum that some members have had great success with the 3W LED's, hence I copied the idea.

    Yes, I am aiming for a high lit tank as I will be running pressurized CO2 on this setup. You will also see that I played around with the Kalvin ratings and also with the red color for optimal different ranges.
     
  4. simbachippie
    Offline

    simbachippie Noob

    • APSA Member
    90%
    Joined:
    Oct 1, 2012
    Messages:
    55
    Likes Received:
    2
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Location:
    Paulshof, JHB
    hello. i am also in the process of doing an DIY LED build. i have put quite alot of effort into researching what i am doing. not saying that my suggestions to you are correct.

    optics... i have read that with the high power leds, the optics are not needed on shallow tanks, ie less than 40cm deep. the leds sperad the light at 120 -130 degrees so a 90 degree optic is the least but probably what i would go for if tou had your heart set on optics.

    as for drivers. well make sure that you get the correct drivers.. you need to look at what milliamps your leds need and how many watts each LED is. be carefull because you are saying 3W when the LED is possibly a 3.6W LED. so lets say for example you buy a 21W driver then it would be best to put on 6leds instead of the 7 like you would think (21w/3w= 7leds)

    in my case the blue and white leds are 3.6W and the reds as 2.4W so be carefull with this.

    dimmable or nondimmable is personal choice.you can put differenc colors on the same driver no problem. just make sure that the mA add up as well as the Watt consumption.

    if i may ask, how are you planning on attaching the LEDs to the heatsink?
    And where did you find such a large heatsink?

    hope this helps.
     
  5. tyronegenade
    Offline

    tyronegenade Specialist

    • APSA Member
    77%
    Joined:
    Oct 30, 2009
    Messages:
    2,707
    Likes Received:
    338
    Trophy Points:
    93
    Location:
    sunny Orange City, Iowa, USA
    You get 1.1 to 1.6 PAR/W from LEDs depending on what amps you run them at. The lower the amps the greater the efficiency. 350 mA seems about the best according to Greystoke's data.

    But, due to the built in optics, it seems that LEDs are about twice as effective as tubes. So, where you would need about 200 W/m2 for T5 tubes you could get away with 100 W/m2 for LEDs.

    Also, for the most part, LEDs have a broad spectrum which has a deep trough at the transition from green to blue light---i.e. they all have lots of read (except the blue LEDs). It may be most effective to go with high K LEDs which will give a good aesthetic to the tank.
     
  6. Greystoke
    Offline

    Greystoke Specialist

    • APSA Member
    10%
    Joined:
    Nov 11, 2009
    Messages:
    1,768
    Likes Received:
    187
    Trophy Points:
    73
    Location:
    Linton Grange,Port Elizabeth
    LEDs are the most efficient at the lowest bias current, so you need to drive the main LEDs up to the required light power

    Best thing to do is group them in rows of 4, then you can use 12V supplies (some of these are adjustable)

    Probably.

    You will need at least some means of adjustment.

    I've used 60 °
     
  7. HC
    Offline

    HC Plant menace

    • APSA Member
    77%
    Joined:
    May 24, 2011
    Messages:
    1,463
    Likes Received:
    336
    Trophy Points:
    93
    Location:
    Roodepoort
    To answer your questions I was planing on using heat sink plaster.
    I had one laying around, my dad used to build PC boards so I found this one in the garage. You can also import them from the link I supplied at the bottom of my first post.
     
  8. HC
    Offline

    HC Plant menace

    • APSA Member
    77%
    Joined:
    May 24, 2011
    Messages:
    1,463
    Likes Received:
    336
    Trophy Points:
    93
    Location:
    Roodepoort
    Thanks Tyrone, but do you suggest I rather opt for 50% 6500K and 50% 10 000K? I was skeptical that with that amount of 10 000K that algae will bloom?
     
  9. Greystoke
    Offline

    Greystoke Specialist

    • APSA Member
    10%
    Joined:
    Nov 11, 2009
    Messages:
    1,768
    Likes Received:
    187
    Trophy Points:
    73
    Location:
    Linton Grange,Port Elizabeth
    I got sick and tired of all those thermo conducting plasters. They don't stick properly. After a while all the LEDs came undone no matter what I tried. I even bolted them on, but that's a bit of a mission.
    Eventually I used BLITZ superglue. No problem.
     
  10. HC
    Offline

    HC Plant menace

    • APSA Member
    77%
    Joined:
    May 24, 2011
    Messages:
    1,463
    Likes Received:
    336
    Trophy Points:
    93
    Location:
    Roodepoort
    Thanks Greystoke, I have noted all of the above.

    Would you mind posting yours sometime as an example?
     
  11. HC
    Offline

    HC Plant menace

    • APSA Member
    77%
    Joined:
    May 24, 2011
    Messages:
    1,463
    Likes Received:
    336
    Trophy Points:
    93
    Location:
    Roodepoort
    Lol many ways to skin a cat
     
  12. Greystoke
    Offline

    Greystoke Specialist

    • APSA Member
    10%
    Joined:
    Nov 11, 2009
    Messages:
    1,768
    Likes Received:
    187
    Trophy Points:
    73
    Location:
    Linton Grange,Port Elizabeth
    Yes, as soon as it presentable. (that shouldn't be too long)
     
  13. tyronegenade
    Offline

    tyronegenade Specialist

    • APSA Member
    77%
    Joined:
    Oct 30, 2009
    Messages:
    2,707
    Likes Received:
    338
    Trophy Points:
    93
    Location:
    sunny Orange City, Iowa, USA
    I don't think the K has any effect on algae. Some tanks are an algae ridden mess with 10 000 K Aquastars while others are fantastic. I think the issue is keeping the plants happy.

    I think what you need to do is get some samples and see how they effect the appearance of the tank. It is worth noting that LEDs seems to operate of a range of kelvins depending on the bias current (or so it seems). For instance the LED CREE-xml Cool White has a K range of 5000--8300 K. This LED also has one of the highest PAR/W of 1.87.

    I think we need to ask people who are using LEDs what LED or combination of LEDs make for the best looking tank?
     
  14. HC
    Offline

    HC Plant menace

    • APSA Member
    77%
    Joined:
    May 24, 2011
    Messages:
    1,463
    Likes Received:
    336
    Trophy Points:
    93
    Location:
    Roodepoort
    Thanks, seems like I will be doing some much needed research on this :read2:
     
  15. Greystoke
    Offline

    Greystoke Specialist

    • APSA Member
    10%
    Joined:
    Nov 11, 2009
    Messages:
    1,768
    Likes Received:
    187
    Trophy Points:
    73
    Location:
    Linton Grange,Port Elizabeth
    I have positioned my LEDs. Warm Wites are along a row in the back illuminating most of the plants while all the Cool Whites are in the front. That makes a big difference.
     
  16. tyronegenade
    Offline

    tyronegenade Specialist

    • APSA Member
    77%
    Joined:
    Oct 30, 2009
    Messages:
    2,707
    Likes Received:
    338
    Trophy Points:
    93
    Location:
    sunny Orange City, Iowa, USA
    Have you posted a photo of you tank with everything setup, lights working etc? It would be great to see how it looks.
     

Share This Page