LED Build

Discussion in 'D.I.Y.' started by Schalkv710, Mar 10, 2016.

  1. Schalkv710
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    Schalkv710 Green fingers

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    Ok So I'm Thinking about building myself a LED unit for my tank. Now my question is how much of these LED's would you guru's recomend? This is the specs:

    Cree LED 5W XT-E Cool White

    • Brand: Cree
    • Type: XT-E
    • Forward Voltage: 2.85 - 3.4 V
    • Forward Current: 350mA to 1500mA
    • Colour Temperature: 5000-8300 K
    • Viewing Angle: 115 Deg
    • Max Temperature: 150Deg
    My dimensions are 80cm x 50cm x 50cm. Thinking of medium to high light. This is the tank with my 2x24w Hagen unit but i want to replace the t5's completely with LED's and looking for more light than what i have at the moment.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  2. jody
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    jody Green fingers

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    i have 2 18w LED bulbs so i have some experience with DIY LED.

    i think 4-8 of those 5w would be sufficient for a 50cm deep tank but your temp range is very wide though. your tank might end up a bit blue if i'm not mistaken, especially with a lighter substrate.

    also. avoid placing them too close to the glass to avoid unnecessary algae growth
    kelvin-color-scale.jpg
     
  3. Schalkv710
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    Schalkv710 Green fingers

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    How about 48 of these guys? To much?

    3W LED Cool White 6000-6500K on Aluminium Heatsink:

    • Forward Voltage: 3.2 - 3.6 V
    • Forward Current: 700mA
    • Beam Angle: 140 Degrees
    • Luminance: 200-220LM
    • Colour Temperature: 6000-6500K
     
  4. jody
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    jody Green fingers

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    3.6v x .7a= 2.5w (3w max) i would be more concerned about individual lux output vs cost effectiveness considering you'll still need a power supply though modding a pc power supply might do.

    honestly you'd be better off buying 2 20w LED floodlights and even then that would probably be too much light. much cheaper simpler, easier and reliable
     
  5. wudze
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    wudze Aquascaper

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    I'd steer clear of the 5W LEDs entirely, unless you're going to go for a forced air cooling system with lots of heat sinks.
    The 3W chips are fine, I've been using them on my tank for almost 2 years now. I just have heat issues in summer when it gets really hot. But a single PC fan sorts that out easy.
    As for number of LEDs, no more than about 20 of the 3W chips. At the 20 x 3W end of that scale you better have your CO2 running at full blast otherwise you're going to have pea soup in no time!
     
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  6. Schalkv710
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    Schalkv710 Green fingers

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    Shit are they that strong?? Cooling is not a problem will be mounted on proper heatsink with fans.
     
  7. wudze
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    wudze Aquascaper

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    I used 30 x 3W LED chips on my tank (70W x 60D x 65H) and I had algae issues the minute my CO2 started getting low. The only reason I used that many was to get enough light down to the substrate for carpeting plants. Recently before I broke the tank, it was down to just 20 x 3W chips and I had zero issues with plants. I didn't have a carpet at that point, so I didn't need all the extra light.
     
  8. skua
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    skua Green fingers

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    I agree with wudze. Get the 3w LED chips. Now this is what I would do. Use 30 x 3W cool whites and 6 x 3W red LEDs. Yes the red makes a big difference on plant growth. Build up 6 banks of 6 LEDs ( 5 x white and 1x red ). The 6 LEDs must be connected in series and the 6 banks in parallel. Before you connect the 6 banks in parallel you first have to current limit each bank. Anything between 250mA and 500mA.I use a LM317 with resistors to do that. For a power supply I would use a high end psu like the lambda 24 volt 4 amp. I would not use a pc power supply as thy are notoriously unreliable and insufficient. Look under "Aquascaping and members setups", go to my 2 foot low tech at work" and see what I did.
     
  9. Greystoke
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    Greystoke Specialist

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    Forced cooling on LEDs is a pain in the butt (so to speak ;)). If it breaks down it will cook your LEDs and I don't need that kind of worry.
    I think it is wise to use modern power LEDs like 'CREE' or similar. Their efficiencies are high (≈40%) when compared to the older low-power LEDs at ≈25%. That prevents a lot of heating.
    I use those LEDs almost exclusively, but . . . I never exceed 500mA bias current and I mount them on large Alum heat sinks. That way I don't need forced air-cooling.

    With regard to spectrum supplementation I would recommend to install extra LEDs @ 400nm and 670nm at the strength of ±10% of the base LEDs PAR output in each band.

    Have fun guys.
     
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  10. Fred van Vuuren
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    Fred van Vuuren Green fingers

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    A really nice option is also to try meanwell power supplies . they available from manteh and will go a long way to supply stable current to your LED's (make them last longer) . you could even get the 1 - 10 volt pwm controlled supplies and run them through a controller . will enable you to fade lights in and out and set min and max intencities for indevidual channels
     
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