Discussion in 'Fish ailments' started by Pedro, Jun 20, 2007.
How can white spot be fought?
Salt and high temp if you dont want to use medication or Protazin from Waterlife
Jungle tank buddies Ick Clear...
i agree with CB, those blue fizzy tabs work like a bomb!! have had only positive results using them so far...
They sound like a bit of a joke, but then they are made for the American market.
I find despite their primary school packaging that they work very well,
the Ick Clear does just that and the Parasite Clear is great, it contains Metronidazole (Flagyl).
Waterlife products are great but they have been around for ages, since I was a kid certainly,
and perhaps the Jungle range is a more updated range of medications.
Waterlife is perhaps more gentle on the aquarium system. :think
and also beware that the jungle tablets give off a blue color that you will never get off the plastic and clear silicone bits in your tank... it will be stained for life... thats the only down side i found in using the meds...
The blue is Mehalen Blue LOL! I dont know the spelling.
But anyway any parasite meds contain it and that is the chemical that staine your silicone.
Not all parasite medications contain Methalyne Blue.
It is certainly effective against some parasites but will kill your filter bacteria and is not very good for plants, which is why other medications are normally prefered.
I would not use Meth Blue except in a quarentine/hospital tank.
The bottles then have some serious wrong info on them.LOL!
Good to know thx Andre!
The strength of the dose makes a big difference, so some medications that contain traces of meth blue (like the jungle tabs) are fine, but make sure you dont overdose.
I should really have said "I would not use neat Meth Blue except in a quarentine/hospital tank."
Personally, I never use medication for white spot. Upping the temperature does the trick for me. But I haven't done this for many years, ever since I started over-filtering. The parasite in it's flagellate stage can't cope with turbulent waters, get sucked up into the filters where they rapidly perish, unable to secure a host.
So high filtration has worked as a preventative measure for me.
Hope that helps you!
Rocky, raising the temperature will only speed up the parasite's metabolism and life cycle. You can kill ich with heat, but the temperature you need to do it is pretty close to the temperature that will kill fish. I've read that some strains of ich can survive in water up to 34 °C, not something I'd want to subject my fish too. Expecting most aquarium heaters to be able to raise the temperature this much is also a bit of a tall order.
Adding ordinary table salt up to a concentration of around 2 teaspoons per gallon has always worked with me. Raising the temperature when you're treating will help, as the life cycle of the parasite is accelerated and the vulnerable free swimming stage is reached sooner. Don't worry about it if the salt is iodised, the water would have to be salty enough to pickle them for the iodine to actually affect the fish. I ususally keep the salt in the water for about a week after the spots disappear, then I start doing water changes with fresh water to get rid of the salt. Increasing or decreasing the salinity should be done slowly, so raise the salinity up to 2 teaspoons per gallon over the course of 4 or 5 hours. Also make sure that the salt you add to the tank is completely dissolved in tank water. NEVER add dry salt to the tank.
The best way to prevent ich is to quarantine new arrivals for at least 2 weeks. My fish have had ich on two seperate occasions because I didn't quarantine new arrivals. Fortunately I haven't lost any fish to ich, but I'm a lot more careful nowadays.
Hope this helps.
Thanks for all the feedback - have gone the high temp and salt route.
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