Quick question as i am a bit confused here. Does this dosage yield the shown amounts of nutrients per 100ml or per the entire 400ml? So in other words will i be adding 0.2ppm of Fe per 100ml that i add to the tank or will it only reach 0.2ppm after the entire 400ml has been added?
It means if you add 2.7g of CSM+B to your 400ml container and add 100ml of the 400ml containter to your 220L tank. It will give you 0.2 ppm Fe in you 220L tank. Dosing 100ml 3 times a week will give you 0.6ppm Fe. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
Sorry...devide your 100ml dose by 3 to get 0.2ppm. Blond moment. So 33.3ml 3 times a week wil give you 0.2ppm. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
This is how I understand it as well. (Although I am always a bit bothered by the statement: "Dose THESE (?) levels 2-4 times a week for EI.") I think they dropped the Fe target from 0.5ppm to 0.2ppm recently - may be mistaken though. The APSA calculator only shows 0.1 ppm.
How can i mix potassium phosphate to combat green spot algae? Is it the lenolax and salpeter mixed together?
Lenolax is sodium phosphate and saltpeter is potassium nitrate, if you getting green spot, just increase your phosphate(lenolax) a little and see if it gets better.
Only read the first page. Would half doses be better with lower tech? I have lower light but not much in the way of liquid ferts but flourish. Half EI doses would help somewhat though right?
EI dosing is over dosing...so you have to be careful. If you not on top of your huge WC's you might be staring down the barrel of a gun. Personally...I'd rather go for PPS Pro in lower CO2 tanks
I do 50%+ weekly on the tank given the fish inside, I wanna grow my plants faster than the polypterus! I just want to bolster growth and can do full EI for my smaller tank.
Just remember...as stated earlier...EI dosing is over dosing. The idea behind it is that you are saturating your water column with ferts, so much so that your plants cant use all of it. Thus, meaning there wont be a deficiency right? Right...but it comes at a price...there's so much ferts in the water column that the plants cant use (let's say they heavy potassium users...what happened to the excess phosphates, nitrogen & micros??). If you dont remove the excess nutrients (with big WC's) you are gonna get algae issues in that quicker than Zuma reshuffles his cabinet. Guys with high light and high CO2 can get away with it...because those will be your limiting factors with excess nutrients. Like any chain...it's only as strong as its weakest link. If you have high ferts, high light...but low CO2...your plants will only be able to "absorb" as much ferts and light as the (limiting factor here) CO2 allows them. Same goes if your limiting factor is low light, etc So just think it through carefully...specially if you dont have a lot of CO2 or weak light...
Cant speak for the lilies but vallis is undemanding and easily takes over a tank. Osmocote and water column fertilization will work fine for it.
Awesome. Going to throw in Christmas moss and Java fern to add to the greenery, giving up on an African theme. They are growing in very basic conditions now so they should do well with more light in there
Hi everyone. Quick question, is it necessary to use sodium free salt (natures choice) if I'm already getting potassium from saltpetre? @shihr @wearsbunnyslippers @JP01
@Shl It depends on the amount potassium you are targeting. Use the calculator to see how much you are getting and if that's enough. From what I remember when I was doing the calcs, targeting a low ppm for all macros meant I did not need no-salt (as there was enough from the saltpeter), but getting higher ppm's for all values meant I definitively did
what dart said. the calculator takes that into consideration. if you put in a nitrate amount and run it, you will see that the potassium values change too