Dosing for 60L

Discussion in 'Planted Tank Equipment' started by darryn, Dec 20, 2012.

  1. darryn
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    darryn Algae harvester

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    Hi all.
    I will be starting my first planted tank soon.

    Here are the specs

    Tank: 600 X 325 X 355 (L X B X H) = +- 69L
    Filter: Textra EX 700 cannister (700 L/H)
    Heater: 50W
    Lights: 1 X 24 Odyssea Dual T5 unit with 1 X Sylvania Grolux and 1 X Sylvania Aquastar (10000K)
    Substrate: ADA Aqua soil (new, out of the bag)
    No injected CO2

    I need advise on a fertiliser dosing regime.
    I was thinking of using EI (using Shir's dummies guide, LOL), but on the very lean side (as suggested by members in previous posts).
    I also have Excel, so that can be used as well.

    Would the above be the best way to start?
    When do I start dosing, as soon as the tank is running, or do I have to wait for a while first, and if so, how long?
    Also, how long should my photo period be to start? I have heard recommendations of starting at 4 hours per day and then slowly increasing it.

    I am a complete noob with ferts, so any relevant info would be appreciated.
    And if there is something that I have left out, then please let me know.

    TIA
     
  2. wolf
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    wolf Valued Contributor

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    ADA Aqua soil (new, out of the bag)
    the first week 50% wc
    then EI on the low side seeing you have no CO2
    but as should have inaffe NO3 and PO4 in for a non CO2 tank so only iron to dose
     
  3. Maurice
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    Maurice Aquascaper

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    And dont forget potassium!! Very essential with as.

    Maybe try around 13ppm per week and see how it goes
     
  4. wolf
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    wolf Valued Contributor

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    you can dose equilibrium to get your GH up and potassium
     
  5. darryn
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    darryn Algae harvester

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    Sorry for sounding stupid, but:

    What products should I be dosing with?
    I hear you that I should be dosing iron and potassium ....
    Would Seachem Equilibrium be right, or should I dose separate products for potassium and iron?
    From my limited experience, I was thinking of dosing with Equilibrium for the the potassium and water hardness (as suggested) and then Trelmix ( as per the fertz calculator) for the iron.
    Am I on the right track here?

    How long should I to this until I start with EI dosing? Is there a 'set' time period, or is there something that I should look for in the growth of my plants?

    TIA
     
  6. Greystoke
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    Greystoke Specialist

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    Just for the record . . .

    Leaving a 50mm gap between the water and the top rim, the total volume of your tank is only 55L
     
  7. Luis Embalo
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    Luis Embalo Valued Contributor

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    Dude, dose EI... do not be afraid of overdosing.. nothing bad happens with overdosing..

    If you do not have CO2, then you need to keep your lights low, and for short duration, no more than 4-5 hours.. and low.. not a lot of light there.. :)
     
  8. darryn
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    darryn Algae harvester

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    So Luis, you reckon I should start EI dosing right from the start?
    If I had/wanted to dose with Excel, would I need to do anything different?

    When you say keeps the light low, can you maybe explain in a bit more detail? Not sure if I am understanding you correctly. LOL
     
  9. Luis Embalo
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    Luis Embalo Valued Contributor

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    I always dose EI from day one.. lots of ferts never killed any plant, quite the contrary.

    The plants are usually grown emersed, so when under water they need to adapt to new conditions, and they need all the help they can get..

    As you got amazonia, you are in the good path.. but dose nonetheless.. yes, it may seem a waste, but with ferts so cheap why take a chance of the plants needing something and you not providing.

    The light issue..
    Lights: 1 X 24 Odyssea Dual T5 unit with 1 X Sylvania Grolux and 1 X Sylvania Aquasta

    This is 48W over a 60L.. good light to grow a carpet on a high tech tank.. a algae magnet for a low tech.

    Your plants without CO2 will not be able to make use of all that light, but the algae can, as it needs less. Less nutrients and CO2.

    As the only thing you can control is light, either raise it to give maybe 20par at substrate or minimise the light duration. Although algae can do well in a short duration.

    If you cannot lower the light duration or intensity, get some floating plants.. Frog bit is good, easy to propagate and sell, and so is indian fern, it can be left floating, and will quickly propagate.

    Less light means less issues with algae and less CO2.

    To dose a 60L with excel will be expensive. Also take note that all those products are chemicals, and they do smell pretty bad, so do you want that being evaporated on your home? I wouldn't..
     
  10. Luis Embalo
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    Luis Embalo Valued Contributor

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    This was my EI recipe for my tanks, used for more than two years.. no issues..
    24g Potassium Nitrate (KNO3)=4 tsp
    2.2g Potassium Phosphate (monobasic)(KH2PO4)= 1/2 tsp
    17g Magnesium Sulphate Heptahydrate (Epsom Salts)(MgSO4) = 4 tsp
    4.0g Potassium Sulphate (K2SO4) = +- 3/4 tsp
    0.5g E300 Ascorbic Acid = 1/8 tsp
    0.2g E202 Potassium Sorbate = 1/16 tsp
    5g EDTA Chelated Trace Elements Mix = 1 tsp
    Add 500ml distilled water


    Dosed 5ml per 40L.

    After a talk with the Dirk (the professor) I somewhat adapted it, dropped the phosphates and sulphates, without any issue, this to match the UK water.. but in South Africa it may be differently, so find what works for you..

    Do not be afraid of using ferts, it is light and lack of CO2 that causes algae, not ferts..
     
  11. Lloydster
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    Lloydster Green fingers

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    please explain what E300 Ascorbic Acid and E202 Potassium Sorbate are??
     
  12. Luis Embalo
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    Luis Embalo Valued Contributor

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    :) to ensure that it did not go off and that iron did not chelate..
     
  13. Luis Embalo
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    Luis Embalo Valued Contributor

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    Otherwise iron would just precipitate and become unavailable to plants.

    The E200 and ascorbic acid are preservatives..
     

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